All printers (even the professional ones at labs) have a resolution of 300 dpi, with the sole exception being Epson printers, which print at 360 ppi. To understand why, let’s look at the printer’s resolution. Printers need a bigger file to create a quality image. Because modern cameras have such high resolutions, and because screens have comparably smaller resolutions, it’s very rare that you would need to enlarge or use Super Resolution on your photos just to view them on computer monitors or mobile devices. These devices have even less resolution than your computer monitor. These days tablets and phones are also used to view imagery. This is why it’s important to perform certain tasks such as noise reduction, sharpening and spot removal at this magnification. This one does require a PCB which I plan to make available soon.When you are viewing at 100 percent you are getting a very accurate view of the quality of your image. I have designed a new and improved version, see The pixel address reversal is handled in the software because otherwise the bottom LED's would be upside down! So both LED's are connected in the middle. This is because I wanted to avoid running the wires down the length of the LED strip. One reader noticed that I didn't explain that the bottom LED strip (led1) is connected by the handle, not down at the bottom. These cards do not fit in the case! The Heltec units I've ordered from Amazon were original Heltec models and fit perfectly. The picture showed the Heltec devices, however the devices they sent were a cheap clone that has the display mounted flat on the board instead of on the plastic spacer. I recently ordered some ESP32 WIFI HELTEC kits from. If you build one of these without using the new PCB (which nobody except me has anyway so far!) make sure to comment out this line. Some of the wiring changed so there is an important change in the sketch. I am working on a new version with a PCB that also mounts the switch. Please let me know if I have missed any of the files or if I need to add more details or photos. You could also just solder the wires in the holes instead of using the jumper wires that I used for the first prototype. I mounted 90 degree angle pins on the ESP32 so I could put the wires on sideways. It is a bit of wiring but I made one that works from the wiring diagram. It has mounts for the SD reader, the level shifter, and the ESP. I added the STL file for the no PCB version. You can wire it by hand, or if you're interested I have designed a PCB holding the components that makes assembly much easier. It can be used with either 1 meter with 144 pixels, or two meters with 288 pixels total. You can control the painter with a single hand! It rotates to make selections and clicks to choose things. Instead I added a single dial/button that is in the handle. I originally used the touch screen like others but after use I felt it was too clumsy to use. I redesigned it using an ESP32 with a built-in display. Like many others I started building this thing with an Arduino Mega but I soon ran into memory and speed issues. I have attached a pdf file with a lengthy description of all the features of this design. Do a Web search for "pixelstick images" to see lots of example of what can be done with this tool. This is a feature rich variation on the PixelStick used for light painting photography.
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